Belgium became part of the international fashion scene in the 1980’s, when six designers graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. These six were Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene. In a fashion world ruled by Christian Lacroix, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace and Yves Saint Laurent, these six designers brought innovation with their avant garde looks.
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| Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck en Dirk Bikkembergs |
It was the British press who coined the phrase. In 1986 the six Antwerp designers went to London for the first time to the British Designer Show. Their designs were very popular but the British press couldn’t pronounce their names. (on a personal note: I encounter this problem multiple times a day when someone asks how to pronounce my last name). But that wasn’t the only reason; at that time there was a tendency in the press to refer to criminal gangs as ‘the Moaist Gang of Four’ in China or the ‘Guildford Five’ accused of Irish terrorism. Very soon the first articles about 'The Antwerp Six' were published.
Before I continue with the stories and styles of the very diverse designers, I want to emphasize the role The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts played in the designers’ success. The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts was founded in 1663, by David Teniers. The original Academy encouraged the study of painting, sculpting, engraving and book printing. It wasn’t until the 1960’s that additional courses were added to the curriculum, such as photography, jewellery, and fashion design. It was Mary Prijot who gave the fashion department of the Academy of Antwerp an international appeal.
The international allure and prestige of the Academy makes it very hard to get in. The lucky (and off course talented) ones who do get in, then start a four year program where they learn fashion design, graphics and tailoring/pattern design. In the third year the students have to present a collection of eight silhouettes and in the final year, the students create their own collection and present it, an event that gets huge international attention. The Academy has students from all over the world, every year about 160 students start but only 8 of them will graduate four years later... It's a tough ride, but if you succeed, the fashion world could be your playground.
Marina Yee
Marina Yee started working for Gruno & Chardin and Bassetti in 1981, right after graduating from the Academy. During this period, she travels to London with Martin Margiela and Dirk Bikkembergs (more about them later on). In 1986, she realizes her collection “Marie” sponsored by a Japanese investor. Although her designs have considerable success, Marina Yee decides she’s done with fashion...for now. She gradually finds her way back and in 1999, she presents her new collection under the name Lena Lena. Her designs are made for a full range of women using Nomads as a important source of inspiration. She pays a lot of attention to details, using rough materials combined with finer fabrics. Marine Yee currently works for Dirk Bikkembergs.
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| Marina Yee |
Walter Van Beirendonck
Walters' career started in 1980, the year of his graduation. It was the time of Cinderella’s Ballroom in Antwerp, the punk period in England and the rise of the designers: Armani, Versace and Gaultier. Two years later, in 1982, he presented his first collection inspired by insects. At the “Gouden Spoel” contests, he received the award of the press and the award of the Belgian manufacturers.
Walter van Beirendonck is also known as the wild one of the Antwerp Six. His creations and ideas are far from conventional, which are displayed in his collections that are very colourful and innovative.
In 1993 he established the W< label, in cooperation with the German company Mustang. W< stands for “Wild And Lethal Trash”. Walter's creations do not require the ideal body and embody a positive up-front message. For W< Van Beirendonck designs street wear in fierce colours, manufactured with the most modern materials derived from sports- and outdoor clothes. When the W< 1994 spring/summer collection was presented during the men’s fashion week in Cologne, it was a sensational international success. Grunge and suicide were out and W< was in.
The W.&L.T. slogan: Kiss the Future!
The W.&L.T. attitude: Be positive. Be awake. Be funny. Be brave.
The W.&L.T. desires: Love, passion, rhythm, action, hope, wishes, light and adventures.
The W.&L.T. ideology: Sanctified contrasts: love and aggression, sex and romance, day and night, angel and devil.
Bono, the lead singer of U2, wanted to jump on this successfull wagon and asked Van Beirendonck to design some stage outfits that bore the slogan "Kiss the future!". Currently, the W< collection is still on track, but there are no more fashion shows.
In 2001, Van Beirendonck accepted the leadership of the project "Mode landed gelanded" because he wanted to think about the essence of fashion again. He still lives in Antwerp today, where he continues to create and explore fashion in all its forms.
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| Walter Van Beirendonck |
